Laos’ Spiritual Heart, Luang Prabang, Sees Surge in Monk-Led Travel Experiences
Luang Prabang, Laos’ spiritual heartland, has seen a surge in tourism in recent years. The city, renowned for its rich Buddhist heritage, ornate temples, and significant population of saffron-robed monks, has become a popular destination for travellers. However, this tourism boom has also led to concerns about the city’s ancient traditions and the commercialisation of sacred Buddhist rituals.
According to Anat Khamphew, a former monk at Wat Xieng Mouane monastery, “Tourism has its pros, but also plenty of cons. We see people behaving very disrespectfully towards the monks. Historic Buddha statues have been stolen from monasteries, and important symbols of devotion are used as backdrops for an Instagram selfie.” Khamphew, who now runs a YouTube channel to promote responsible travel, says that he wanted to help play a part in recovering Luang Prabang’s spiritual heart and soul.
Khamphew is not alone in his efforts. A handful of other former monks in the city have also set up tour-guiding companies, such as Orange Robe Tours and Spirit of Laos, to promote a better understanding of Luang Prabang’s traditional Buddhist culture and customs. Bounthan Sengsavang, who set up Spirit of Laos in 2024, says that “the people most closely related to the subject should be the ones who guide you. If you haven’t been a monk and lived in a monastery yourself, you don’t know what it’s like. Buddha himself taught from experience. I like to do the same.”
Sengsavang’s tours focus on providing a more immersive and respectful experience for visitors. Rather than offer a long checklist of temples to visit on a whirlwind city tour, he prefers to spend quality time in a small handful to show the monks’ daily lives to his guests in detail. “The monks live very simply,” he says. “Wealth and possessions are seen as the roots of suffering. Without them, monks can dedicate themselves to meditation, study, and ethical living. And by relying solely on alms from the community for food, they practice humility and gratitude.”
Sengsavang can also facilitate sessions of prayer, chanting, and meditation in the company of monks upon request. He tells me that meditation can be learned in one or two days; be performed walking, sitting, standing, or sleeping; and that its benefits include stilling a stressed mind and overcoming depression. “The monks are always happy for us to join them,” he says, noting that they often enjoy interacting with visitors afterwards. “It’s a great way to connect with them and find out who they are, why they joined the monastery, and help them practice their English.”
The majority of boys in Laos spend time in a monastery, from a few weeks up to a lifetime. As well as receiving a free education, their ordination is considered vital for their parents’ spiritual wellbeing and reincarnation – particularly that of their mother. “In the Lao Buddhist tradition, when a boy becomes a monk, the merit helps elevate the mother’s karma,” Sengsavang explains. “That improves her chances of a good and happy rebirth after death.”
Sengsavang’s tours don’t shy away from life’s realities, and can include a visit to a Buddhist cremation. (Visitors are welcome to attend as long as they remain at a respectful distance.) “Everything ends; we just don’t know when,” he says. “Seeing a cremation is important; it reminds people of the value of the short life we have. Perhaps it will also help them find their purpose or inspire them to live their own lives better. If that happens, it’s a form of enlightenment.”
The city of Luang Prabang takes its name from the golden Phra Bang, the country’s most sacred Buddha icon, which is housed in the city’s National Museum complex in a dedicated temple. “It represents Buddhism coming to Laos and is believed to protect the nation; it’s why the city is so venerated,” says Khamphew. Visiting wats, performing pujas (devotional acts), offering alms, and cultivating merits with good deeds form a key part of daily life among Luang Prabang’s largely Buddhist population.
Luang Prabang’s profound and omnipresent spirituality, coupled with its eclectic architectural styles – a blend of Laotian, Buddhist, and French colonial – have made it increasingly popular with visitors, including Instagrammers and influencers. However, this increased attention has also led to concerns about cultural erosion and the impact of tourism on the city’s ancient traditions.
One of the rituals affected by the city’s tourism growth is the Tak Bat, a solemn daily ceremony dating back more than 600 years, where hundreds of barefoot monks file through the streets before dawn collecting alms. Despite signs requesting appropriate behaviour from onlookers, these are often ignored. “It hurts my heart to see such disrespect,” says Parn Thongparn, a local nun-turned-tour guide who avoids the ceremony and takes her guests elsewhere for a more peaceful experience. “We love visitors, but if they took a little time to understand our culture better, it would help protect our beautiful traditions.”
Another problem is the offering of inappropriate alms by tourists, such as plastic-wrapped junk food or leftovers. “Food eaten by monks must be fresh, clean, and pure; any dishes should be vegetarian, avoid spices, and ideally be prepared at home that same morning,” explains Linda Heu, a cook at the city’s Wat Munna monastery. “Most importantly, it should be a meaningful gesture, not just something for a photo opportunity.”
The efforts of Sengsavang and others to promote responsible travel and a deeper understanding of Luang Prabang’s Buddhist culture are a step in the right direction. By supporting local businesses and tour operators that prioritise respect and sustainability, visitors can help contribute to the preservation of this unique and special city. As Sengsavang says, “It’s how travel should be: thoughtful and beneficial to all. And that’s good karma.”
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